Three Simple Rules for A Flawless DIY Wedding

Wedding Party Celebrating

A little over four months ago, G and I said “I do” with our closest family and friends standing by our side. It was such a magical day that lasted well into the night. I remember feeling so many things all at once: excitement to see everyone who had traveled from near and far to celebrate with us, nervousness about walking down that aisle, and pride because of all the work Graham and I had put into planning together in the year leading up to the big day.

When we started building our wedding budget back in late 2015, G and I were in complete agreement about where we wanted the majority of our money to be spent. Coming in first place was the music, next was the bar (obvi), and because we wanted to get married in my home town of Charleston, SC, we knew we’d also need to reserve a good bit of money for the venue itself.

To get the most out of the remainder of our budget we decided to DIY as much as we could. We made signs, hand painted our cake topper, designed our own stamp for our favors, and designed and printed our own programs, among other things. By following the three rules below, we ended up with a smooth, consistent look, and impressed guests who asked us where we’d bought everything.

Wedding Day On Shem Creek

1. Pick a Font and Stick with It

It’s easy to feel overwhelmed when scrolling through line after line of script, calligraphy and handwritten letters on the many free font sites out there. If you’re design-minded and can pick two (or more) decorative fonts that look great together, well then you go Glen Coco. If you’re not so skilled in that department (yours truly), just scroll until you see something interesting that stands out to you. Once you’ve chosen your decorative font, pick a “supporter” font that’s super simple, easy to read, and won’t compete with the fun one. I chose this decorative font from http://www.dafont.com, and this simple sans serif supporter font. To make the decorative font work for each of our projects, I made small adjustments to letter height, width, spacing, and thickness in Photoshop.

Custom DIY Wedding Sign

2. Streamline Your Color Palette

Less is more, my friend. Rather than picking 10 colors, choose one or two and utilize variations on each hue. This will make everything from choosing bridesmaid dresses, to ordering linens, to picking out flowers much easier, and your DIY elements will fit seamlessly because it’ll be easier to make them match. When choosing your colors, it helps to think about your venue and what best fits the backdrop it’ll provide.

Our ceremony and reception took place at a venue located on Shem Creek, a busy little Charleston waterway, lined with quaint restaurants and docked shrimp boats draped with colorful bouys and shrimping nets. We wanted the local color to be the star of the show, so we chose a whites and greys to make up our palette. Our DIY programs were printed in a simple charcoal on white card stock, and we used white paint for our signs. I couldn’t find any grey food-safe bags I liked for our locally roasted coffee favors, so I opted for neutral kraft paper bags with charcoal ink for the stamp.

Custom DIY Wedding Favor

3. Scale Back

Do you really need four different favors with custom DIY packaging? No. Do you really need those custom seat signs for the mother of the bride, mother of the groom, your favorite aunt, and your old babysitter? No. Do you really need a handwritten chalkboard seating chart with place cards made from pieces of the wine barrel you drank from with your soon-to-be husband on your first date to a local vineyard? No, you Pinterest addict, you do not.

Don’t get me wrong, Pinterest can be a great source of inspiration when you’re looking to add some DIY to your wedding. But when your “Wedding Inspo” pinboard is full of those super-cute-but-deceptively-complicated projects, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. It’s hard to recognize which ones are worthy of your time, and which will cause unnecessary stress (and not be remembered by your guests anyway). After you’ve pinned away, take some time to read through the step-by-step instructions for each project. Weigh the time it’ll take to finish each one with the impact it’ll really make on your day, and come up with a timeline for finishing each one. If you do that you’ll arrive at your wedding day with your sanity and finished projects you’ll be proud to show off.

Custom DIY Wedding Programs

DIY-ers like us know that it’s not just the result of the project, but the process that makes it worthwhile. It’s the doing part of doing it yourself that makes the end result so rewarding. Whether you’re on a budget, or just want to add a bit of your own style to your wedding day, it is possible to make your DIY projects look flawless.

Did you incorporate any DIY into your wedding day, or are you DIY-ing your upcoming celebration? I’d love to hear about your plans in the comments below!

XO,

Sarah

Mask and Ask: Clarifying Clay

My friend Channing and I have this great ritual we jokingly named Mask and Ask when we first came up with it, and over time the name just stuck. Every few weeks or so, we get comfy, put on a face mask, grab a glass of wine, and FaceTime each other. I’m in Atlanta, and she’s back in our hometown of Charleston, SC, so Mask and Ask is the perfect excuse to catch up, get a little wine-drunk, and treat our skin at the same time!

I started making my own masks a few years ago when I was looking for alternatives to drugstore brands that are often ineffective and tough on sensitive skin like mine, and high-end brands that work well, but are out of my budget. DIY masks are great because you can play around with super effective natural ingredients, and there are no preservatives. It’s like a science experiment that makes you prettier! (read that last sentence in your best Elle Woods voice).

Today I’m sharing how to make my favorite clarifying clay mask. This is the one I make when I’m in a rush and don’t have much time before a scheduled Mask and Ask date. I’ll also sometimes use it as a base for other masks, adding extra ingredients to amp up the moisture or pore cleansing power. I hope to make Mask and Ask an ongoing series, so if you like this one, stay tuned! It’ll be like we’re all FaceTiming together (I’ll bring the wine!).

What You’ll Need:

  • Bentonite Clay
  • Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
  • Distilled Water

Mix about one tablespoon of Bentonite Clay with a half teaspoon each of the vinegar and water (I like my masks pretty thick, but you can add more of either of the liquids to get the consistency you like). The mask will bubble a little as you mix. Apply to your whole face, avoiding the area around your eyes, or just smooth over trouble spots. For me that’s the area around my nose, and my chin.

Leave it on for 10-15 minutes, or until dry, and then rinse with warm water. It’ll go from a dark, Wicked Witch green, to a lighter, more Frankenstein-ish color (my husband’s actual words, y’all).

Note: this mask will pull as the drying clay contracts, and you may even notice visible pulling of your skin. I love this part because it makes me feel like the clay is literally sucking debris and oil out of my pores, but if you find that the pulling feels itchy or uncomfortable, add a small scoop (about a teaspoon) of coconut oil to your mixture. You’ll get some nice extra moisture, and the mask won’t pull quite as much or dry as hard. 

Why this mask works:

Bentonite Clay

When Bentonite clay comes into contact with liquid, the molecular components of the clay rapidly change, producing an electrical charge. The clay swells and becomes porous, and then shrinks as the mask dries, pulling toxins and dead skin with it. This brand is my favorite.

Be sure to mix your mask with your finger, or a plastic utensil. Once liquid has been introduced, metal will cause the clay to lose its effectiveness.

Apple Cider Vinegar

Smells terrible, works wonders. That should be the tagline on every bottle of ACV. This stinky powerhouse contains a few beneficial acids that are formed during the double fermentation process that turns ACV from plain old apple cider into apple cider vinegar. Lactic, Citric and Malic acid all work to exfoliate dead skin cells, revealing fresh, healthy skin underneath. Because the pH of ACV is close to the pH of skin, it also helps bring your skin into balance and restore its natural protective barrier.

Make sure you get organic ACV with the “mother” (This brand is available almost everywhere). This means it’s unpasteurized and contains the most beneficial bacteria. You’ll see them floating around near the bottom of the bottle…gross but effective.

Hope you enjoy this easy-to-make natural face mask! Do you have a favorite go-to mask? Is it all natural, or store-bought? Tell me in the comments below!

Hairpin Leg Coffee Table Hack (+ bonus side table!)

My interest in mid-century modern style was sparked while reading a Smithsonian article about Frank Lloyd Wright back in 2009 (the article is pretty ancient now, but still a great read!), and since then my love for the clean lines and nature-inspired elements of the style that defined the 40s and 50s has only grown. I had been hunting for the perfect hairpin leg coffee table at the right price for a while, with zero luck, when the idea occurred to me to make my own. Riding a high of equal parts inspiration and caffeine, I parked myself in our spare bedroom, and started researching. When I finally emerged, empty coffee cup in hand, I had a plan.

And I can’t wait to share it with you!

This is seriously the easiest hairpin leg coffee table tutorial ever, and as the title suggests, you also get a sweet little side table out of the deal. And the final product looks slicker than Don Draper’s hair before his pitch to the boys at Lucky Strike.

Let’s get started, shall we?

Materials:

  • “Project Panel” from The Home Depot (we used their 6×2 ft., 1/2 in. thick Birch panel)
  • Hairpin Legs (I picked up one set of 16″, and one set of 28″ legs from here)
  • Cordless Drill
  • Stain (I used Minwax Oil-Based Wood Finish in Dark Walnut)
  • Polyurethane Clear Coat
  • Brush (I snagged a cheaper one for about $6 from Home Depot while I was picking up the wood)
  • Old Sheet or Drop Cloth

 

1. Gather Your Materials

The Wood Panel

You can certainly use any size wood you want (and you can get it from anywhere you want), but the ease of this particular project is due in large part to the “Project Panel” I found at my local Home Depot. It was a great price because it’s made up of a cheaper core with an outer layer of nicer wood (called a veneer). The outer veneer on our birch panel was smooth and solid, and the panel was just thick enough to hold the hairpin leg screws, but not so thick that your table lost it’s mid-century sleekness. This is not an ad I swear, though I’m absolutely game if you are, Home Depot…Call me?

I chose the Birch panel because I liked the grain the best, and I asked the nice man in the lumber department to make one cut for me right at the four-foot mark. This gave me two pieces: one 4×2 ft. (for my coffee table top), and one 2 ft. square (for my side table top). Leave no wood behind!

The Legs

You can find hairpin legs for sale all over the internet, but I’m an impatient millennial. After some savvy googling, I found these sets at the Rockler Hardware near my apartment and was able to pick them up the same day. If you don’t have a Rockler near you, try calling your local hardware stores (I’ve found that big chains like Home Depot and Lowe’s don’t carry this sort of thing). If you have no luck, ordering online isn’t so bad and the selection is great (I love these, these and these on Amazon, which you won’t have to wait long for if you have Prime!).

2. Attach Your Legs

Lay your table pieces on your drop cloth so that the side you want to use as the top is facing down, and the underside is facing up. Carefully measure where you want to attach your legs, mark using a pencil, and drill your pilot holes.

I chose to attach the L-shaped leg brackets about an inch from each corner of the table top. Hairpin legs slant slightly outward as they reach the floor, and I wanted the tip of each leg to hit the floor directly under the corners of the tabletop. Where you place your legs is up to you, just make sure they’re symmetrical so that your table is sturdy.

Screw your legs on, and your tables are done!

Helpful Tips: 

1. Use masking tape to mark where to stop when drilling your pilot holes.

2. If your table legs come with longer screws, use washers to ensure they don’t poke through the table top. We used washers just in case, but our wood was thick enough that we could have gotten away with skipping this step.

3. Add a dab of wood glue to your drill hole before you put in the screw just to give it a little extra hold.

4. If a hunky husband and adorable pup volunteer to help, let them! Trust me, it’ll be cute.

3. Stain and Seal

When it comes to stain you’ve got a few options:

  • Oil-based: stinks quite a bit, takes FOR-E-VER to dry, but provides smooth, even coverage
  • Water-based: stinks slightly less, dries quickly, coverage can turn out uneven if you’re not quick

I went with the oil-based option (Minwax’s Dark Walnut) because I’m not quick with a brush, and I really wanted a nice, even finish. Whichever option you choose, be sure you’re working in a well ventilated area. A garage or driveway would be ideal, but if you’re in an apartment like me, open all the windows in the room you’re using as your workspace, and set up fans to create a cross breeze.

To seal the stain in I used Polyurethane (also by Minwax). I applied two coats on every surface of each table, with ample dry time and a light sanding between each layer. I added one extra layer for good measure on each of the table tops because who really uses coasters, I ask you?

Polycrylic (the water-based version of Minwax’s Polyurethane) would also work for this step. Just make sure, if you used the oil-based stain, that your stain is completely dry before applying the Polycrylic, or the water/oil combo could cause peeling. Polycrylic has held up really well for me when using it on painted furniture, and if you chose the water-based stain, this is the sealer for you. Follow the directions on whatever stain and sealer you choose, and make sure to allow the proper amount of drying time in between coats.

Once your new coffee table and side table have fully dried it’s time to set them up in your living room, give yourself a pat on the back, and enjoy!

I’d love to hear how your tables turn out in the comments below!

Gold Embellished Smoking Slippers

Gold Embellished Smoking Slippers

Smoking slippers are such a classic style, and they go with just about everything. I have a few pairs in different colors, and have been wearing them more and more lately. I most often find myself reaching for them when I’m rushing to get ready and don’t quite know how to finish my outfit. They lend polish where needed, but I think they offer just a bit more edge than other slip-on shoes (I still love you, ballet flats!).

I’m absolutely obsessed with these, these and these, but, alas, C. Wonder is no longer in business, and the Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs flats are waaaaay out of my price range. So, to hold me over until I win the lottery and leave all you suckers in the dust, I decided to try making my own version using the C. Wonder Evil Eye design for inspiration. They turned out even better than I thought they would, and I may now be addicted to ironing vinyl onto things. But I’m pretty sure I can quit anytime I want to…

See the full tutorial and list of materials after the jump!

Continue reading

2-Step Moss Letters

2-Step Moss LettersIn an effort to save up for our dream house, G and I opted to pack up and leave our tiny apartment near Buckhead, and live for a year or two “OTP”. that’s Outside the Perimeter for you non-Atlantans, meaning we’re just outside of the highway that surrounds the city. I knew I would miss being close to the action of the city, but we were able to get a much larger apartment for less money. Great, right? Yes! BUT, as soon as we moved in I realized that we only had enough furniture and wall decor to fill our teeny tiny closet of an apartment in Buckhead! I’ve been working hard ever since make this space our own on a shoestring budget, and that means lots of DIY projects and bargain hunting.

The key for a rental space is to decorate with items that can easily be removed, so you get to keep that security deposit. I find the best ideas on Pinterest, and sometimes even take key elements from bigger, more permanent projects and recreate them to work for our space.  That was the case for these moss letters in our apartment. I have admired this live moss lettering project for a while, and I know one day I’ll use it in a space we own. But for our current living arrangement, I needed to figure out how I could capture the look and feel of live moss on the wall without causing actual property damage. Then I saw a bag of moss on one of my Hobby Lobby aisle-wandering trips, and boom, simplest DIY post ever was born.

Ready? Let’s get started!

2-Step Moss Letters: My Weekend Workshop

Materials:

Preserved Moss (mine is The Moss Collection brand from Hobby Lobby)

Glue (I LOVE Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue for simple projects like this)

8″ Cardboard Letters (Buy them, or make your own using this tutorial from Poppytalk!)

Scissors

Optional: A sizeable scrap of wrapping paper or newspaper placed over your work surface for easy clean-up

Not optional: a piping hot cup (or three) of strong coffee

 

Step 1: Glue the moss to the surface of your letters.

Easy Moss Letters: My Weekend WorkshopUse the tip of your glue bottle to spread glue all over a 2″-3″ section of the front surface of one of your letters. Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue stays, well, tacky for a while, so if you stick (ha!) to spreading glue in 3″ segments, you’ll have plenty of time to place your moss and even move it around a little before the glue dries.2-Step Moss Letters: My Weekend WorkshopPinch small sections of moss and work them with your fingers to arrange them in a semi-flat clump. Place this clump onto the glue and press down gently. I found it easiest to place larger clumps like this down first and get pretty good coverage over the sticky glue, then pinch of smaller bits and poke them in where needed, filling in any in any gaps where you can see cardboard.

2-Step Moss Letters: My Weekend Workshop

2-Step Moss Letters: My Weekend WorkshopContinue working in sections until you cover the whole front surface, then move on to the sides, and the back. I have plans to include my little moss letters in a future living room gallery wall, so I chose to leave the back of each letter moss-free. If you’re using your letters in any open setting (example: as a table centerpiece), you’ll definitely want to cover the back, and maybe even leave a little space on the bottom bare, so that they’ll remain stable enough to stand on their own.

2-Step Moss Letters: My Weekend WorkshopOnce you’ve covered each surface, your letters will look like two characters from Sesame Street. Slap some eyes on those badboys and they could be Oscar the Grouch’s long-lost cousins. This tutorial is brought to you by the letters D, I and Y…you get the idea.

 

Step 2: Trim!

Easy Moss Letters: My Weekend WorkshopGive your letters a quick haircut, snipping off the moss bits that stick out too much. How much you cut is entirely up to you, but the idea is to snip enough so that you’re safely out of Muppet territory, without snipping all the way down to the cardboard.

And, you’re done! Now all that’s left to do is find a great spot to display your beautiful moss letters.

Easy Moss Letters: My Weekend Workshop

For now, until I finally get my butt in gear and hang my living room gallery wall, I opted to show my moss letters off on the mantel above our fireplace. I added this adorable mini lantern that I picked up at Anthropologie last week, and I think they go really well together.  What do you think?

As I was making my moss letters, I started thinking of all the different ways they could be used. They would look great as monogram centerpieces at a DIY wedding, or could be used to spell out the bride’s soon-to-be last name for the gift table at a shower. It would be so simple to attach a mini moss monogram to a grapevine wreath and give as a thoughtful housewarming gift, too!

I’d love to see pictures of your moss letters and hear how you plan to use them! Let me know down below in the comments 🙂

 

XO, Sarah

Summer Swing Tassel Layering Necklace

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend WorkshopTassels! I’m seeing them more and more as the weather continues to warm up, and I don’t think I’m just noticing them because I love them so much. The world really has gone tassel-crazy! And just in case you were wondering, I’m completely, 100% on board with this festive trend. Or a little overboard maybe, depending on how you look at it. I may or may not have created an entire Pinterest board just for tassels, and that board may or may not be filled with adorable be-tasseled (is that a word? It is now.) shoes, bags, accessories, and the most sassy jewelry you’ve ever seen.

After a few weeks of longing for something be-tassled to call my very own, an idea struck me. I decided to try my hand at making my own playful tassel necklace that would be great with all of the fun outfits I have planned for the warm summer days to come.

 

Materials:

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend Workshop

{Please excuse the well-loved wire cutters – they were self-conscious and didn’t want to be photographed up close, but agreed to appear in just this one shot}

  • Chain (I chose a basic style, but a more ornate chain would work just as well!)
  • Ruler
  • Wire Cutters
  • Lobster Claw Jewelry Clasp
  • 5mm Jump Ring (1)
  • 4mm Jump Rings (16)
  • Tassels
  • Small Needle-nose Pliers (I included both round-nose and flat-nose jewelry pliers in my materials shot, but ended up only using the flat-nose)

Most of these items, with the exception of the tassels, can be found at big craft stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael’s for pretty cheap. There’s a great selection of tassels on Etsy, and you can find the exact tassels I used here

 

Step 1: Choose your chain length.

Use your wire cutters to carefully snip your chain to the length you prefer. I wanted a long necklace that draped to just below my chest, so I made my chain approximately 38″ long.  The easiest way to choose your necklace length is to stand in front of a mirror while you adjust the chain until you get it perfect, then snip!

 

Step 2: Add the clasp to your chain.

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend WorkshopGrab your 5mm jump ring and use your pliers to gently open it. Then thread it through the last link on one end of the chain and close it back up. I typically just use my fingers to pull the ring closed while I hold it steady with the pliers, but you could also use another pair of pliers to bend it back in place if you find that easier!

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend Workshop

Next, grab one of your 4mm jump rings, open it with your pliers and thread it through the last link on the opposite end of the chain, and then the loop on your clasp before bending it closed.

 

Step 3: Plan your tassel spacing.

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend Workshop

Before attaching your tassels, spend some time playing around with spacing and color patterns. I started this project with six sets of four tassels in multiple colors: deep purple, hot pink, light pink, orange, lime green and bright aqua. After spending some time arranging and rearranging my necklace, I opted to save the lime green and bright aqua tassels for a future project, and stick to only warm colors for this necklace. This meant fewer tassels, spaced further apart, so I ended up choosing to have about 1″ of chain length between each tassel.

 

Step 4: Attach your tassels.

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend WorkshopI opted to attach a tassel at the dead center of the necklace, and build the rest of the tassels up from there, towards the clasp. The easiest way to find the dead center is to hold your necklace chain up by the closed clasp and let it hang straight. The bottom of the hanging chain will be dead center. Once you find that point, attach your tassel there using one of your 4mm jump rings. Use your ruler to keep your spacing consistent as you attached the rest of your tassels.

 

Optional Step: Add a bonus tassel.

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend WorkshopBecause I opted to start with a single center tassel and build the necklace from there, I ended up with one leftover tassel in my favorite color of the whole lot: deep purple. I wasn’t sure what to do with the little fella until G suggested that I add it to the clasp just for fun. Such a smart one, he is!

Summer Swing Tassel Necklace: My Weekend WorkshopSo there you have it. A swingy little necklace that’s always ready for a party!

XO, Sarah

Recycled Wine Cork Succulent Planters

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

I fell in love with this idea when I saw it on It All Started With Paint and Pop Sugar, and recently I decided it was time to try my own version. Tiny little adorable green plants you can stick on the fridge? Sign me up! As an added bonus, you basically HAVE to drink wine to make this work (at least that’s the story I told G). Added double-bonus: those of you out there lacking a ‘green thumb’ (#ifeelyourpain) will find this just as easy to handle as the gardening pros. Added triple-bonus: these make great little last-minute gifts for moms!

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Pro tip: when setting up your work space, first lay out a few pages of old newspaper, a place mat, or an old box lid. You’ll be working with dirt, and this will make for super easy cleanup. (I used a piece of scrapbook paper for cute picture purposes, but probably would have had an easier time with something larger.)


Materials:

  • Small succulent plants or clippings from plants you have around the house (I bought mine at Lowe’s for about $3 each)
  • Wine corks (drink up!)
  • Glue gun + glue stick
  • Semi-strong magnets (I picked these up at Lowe’s as well, for about $4)
  • Sewing scissors, or other small scissors
  • Potting soil (not pictured)

Optional:

  • Washi tape for decoration
  • Small terracotta pots or other small vessels


Step 1: Prepare your clippings.
Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Use your scissors to carefully snip small branches off of your succulents. Try to pick stems that will be long enough to extend into the cork planters a bit so that they can absorb the nutrients they need from the soil. If necessary, you can gently wiggle the lower leaves on the clipping until they fall off to create a longer stem. Don’t worry about leaving a stump behind on the mother plant, those stumps should grow new succulent buds over time.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Now set your clippings aside for a day or two to scab over. Is that word absolutely disgusting? Yes, it’s 100% gross. Is it absolutely necessary? Yep. Succulents can go long periods of time without being watered because they absorb whatever water they can find around them and store it in their squishy leaves. So you’ll need a good scab (*shudder*) formed on each of your clippings to regulate their water absorption upon planting in the moist potting soil.

 

Optional Step: Replant your mother plants in small pots.

Pack your potting soil into each pot, then add water so that the soil is slightly moistened. Grab what’s left of your succulent plants (roots and all) after clipping and place into the soil. Gently pack more soil around the base of each plant to secure them in an upright position. Boom! Done!


Step 2: Carve your wine corks.

This step is pretty easy, but it’s also pretty tedious because you’ll want to be extra careful that you don’t slip and cut yourself. You can use the tip of your sewing scissors, or grab a knife from your kitchen to carve out a deep hole in each cork. You want the hole to reach about 3/4 of the way to the bottom.

Grab an extra cup of coffee for this one and pop on some Netflix (suggestion: Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt – you’re welcome.), because it will take you a while. My five corks took me a little over an hour to carve, but I didn’t discover my secret cork carving weapon until late in the game, so I’m sure next time it’ll go faster.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Secret Weapon: about halfway through my carving session, I discovered that the little knife on the end of a wine key works really well for carving. I think it’s so perfect because the blade is just the right size, and it’s not as sharp as a kitchen knife, so I wasn’t as worried about slipping while I carved.

Your finished corks should look like this:

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

 

Step 3: Decorate your corks (optional) and add your magnets.

The printed wine labels on each cork make them really beautiful on their own, but to add some visual interest (and because I just LOVE polka dots!), I added a strip of washi tape around two of my corks. Washi tape doesn’t adhere well to the cork’s texture, so I had to use a tiny bit of hot glue to make it stick.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Washi tape makes for easy-peasy, quick decorating, but you could also add glitter, ribbon, paint, or jewels to make these your own.

Next, glue your magnet to the side of the cork. I started this project with some magnets I bought at Lowe’s that were about the size of a penny. Once I held them up to the corks, I knew they would be too large to give me the look I was going for, so I went back and swapped them out for a smaller version that’s still strong enough to hold each planter.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

If you chose to decorate with washi tape, you can use the magnet to cover the tape seam.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

 

Step 4: Plant your succulents.

Now that you’ve dried your succulent clippings for a few days, it’s time to plant them in your new planters. Fill each cork planter about 3/4 full with potting soil and pack firmly using your finger. Then, place your clipping on top and hold it gently in place while you pack dirt in around the stem. I used the flat end of a kabob skewer for this part, but a pen cap, or tooth pick would work just as well for getting around the tiny leaves and packing the dirt in without damaging the delicate plant.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

 

Step 5: Enjoy!

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Find a prominent place (like your fridge) to display your tiny forest! Succulents like a lot of diffused light (think: a bright window with the blinds down), and they only need to be watered thoroughly when the soil is completely dry (this simulates the desert climate where they naturally thrive). I added a few drops to each clipping right after planting, but will not water again for a while.

Wine Cork Succulent Planters: My Weekend Workshop

Pro tip: use a dropper (I got mine for about $2 at Whole Foods) or a straw to water your new planters.

 

I’m proud to say, I made this set of planters about a week ago and they’re still alive and kicking. (They alive, dammit! It’s a miracle!) If I can do it, you can too!

XO, Sarah

Follow The Weekend Workshop on WordPress.com

Jump to a Category